Swimming with humpback whale in Tonga

Want to Swim with Whales? Here's Where It's Actually Legal

Scritto da: Olaf Pignataro

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Tempo di lettura 11 min

Swimming with whales is one of those experiences that sits on a lot of bucket lists, but very few people know where it's possible, with which species, and at what time of year. Humpbacks in Tonga. Orcas in Norway. Sperm whales in Dominica. Blue whales off the coast of Timor-Leste. Southern right whales in Patagonia. Each destination has its own season, its own rules, and its own character.

But not everywhere that offers whale swims does it responsibly. Some destinations are well-regulated and carefully managed; others are grey areas where the line between wildlife tourism and harassment is dangerously thin. When pressure gets out of hand, whales change their migration patterns, or stop coming altogether.

This guide covers the best destinations in the world to swim with whales: what species you'll find, when to go, what the regulations look like, and how to make sure you're doing it right. We run expeditions to several of these destinations ourselves; and for the ones we don't, we'll tell you that too.

Humpback Whales

The Most Widely Travelled Giants

Humpback whale in Tonga

Of all the great whales, the humpback is the one you're most likely to encounter. With a global population estimated between 80,000 and 135,000 individuals (a remarkable recovery from fewer than 5,000 in the 1960s, after decades of commercial whaling) humpbacks inhabit every ocean on the planet. They are migratory animals in the truest sense: every year, they make one of the longest journeys of any mammal on Earth, travelling thousands of kilometres between cold, food-rich feeding grounds near the poles and warm, sheltered breeding grounds closer to the equator.

This means that if you know where to look and when, you can spot humpbacks in a staggering range of places. Their distinctive blow, visible from kilometres away, and their habit of breaching and slapping the surface make them easier to find than almost any other large whale. Off the coast of Costa Rica and Panama in the Pacific, along both coasts of Africa, around Iceland and the Azores in the North Atlantic, in the waters of Hawaii, New Zealand, and Australia, humpbacks are not hard to find. What is harder is finding a place where you can legally and responsibly get in the water with them.

That list is short. Here is where it stands.

Tonga — July to November

For many people who have done it, Tonga is the definitive humpback experience. The whales come here from Antarctica to breed and give birth, and the regulations are solid: licensed operators only, maximum four swimmers per whale, always with a certified guide. What most people don't know is that Tonga is three distinct archipelagos. Vava'u is the most visited and increasingly busy. Ha'apai, further south, is off the grid: fewer boats, shallower lagoons, whales that are less habituated to humans. It's where we go.


French Polynesia — July to November

Same season as Tonga, similarly spectacular encounters. Moorea is the most accessible entry point but can get crowded, with multiple boats converging on the same whales in peak season. For a quieter, more responsible experience, Rurutu in the Austral archipelago is the better choice: smaller, more remote, with operators who have been running whale swims there for years.


Mozambique — July to October

Mozambique offers something the Pacific destinations can't match: extraordinary marine biodiversity alongside the humpbacks. On the same day in the water at Tofo, you can encounter whale sharks, manta rays, and dolphins. And if that's not enough, Kruger National Park is a short drive across the border: a safari with the Big Five on the same trip as a whale swim is not something you can do anywhere else.


Silver Bank, Dominican Republic — January to April

Between January and April, an estimated 5,000 to 7,000 North Atlantic humpbacks converge on this submerged limestone plateau 100 kilometres north of the Dominican Republic to mate and give birth. Only three operators hold permits to work in the sanctuary, offering fewer than 600 places per season, making it one of the most regulated and exclusive whale swim destinations in the world. Access is liveaboard only, encounters are snorkel and passive, and the sound of a male humpback singing through the water is something that stays with you. We don't currently run trips here ourselves, but it belongs on any honest list.


Northern Norway — November to January

Norway is one of the few places in the world, along Baja California where it is legal to snorkel with orcas; and during the herring run in the Arctic fjords, humpbacks feed in the same waters. You won't come here specifically for humpback encounters, but finding yourself in the water with both species at once, in the half-light of a Norwegian winter, is an experience in a different category entirely. Cold, dark, and utterly unlike anything else on this list.

Our Humpback Whale destinations:

Sperm Whales

The deep divers

Swim with sperm whales in Dominica

Where humpbacks are defined by their migrations, sperm whales are defined by their depth. They are the largest toothed predators on the planet, capable of diving to over 2,000 metres in search of giant squid, holding their breath for up to 90 minutes in the process. When they surface, they rest — sometimes for extended periods, hovering vertically just below the surface in what researchers call "logging." It's in these moments of recovery that encounters become possible.

Unlike humpbacks, sperm whales are relatively sedentary, living in tight matrilineal family groups that return to the same waters year after year. This makes them more reliably findable than migratory species, but it also means that irresponsible tourism leaves a lasting mark. The best time to swim with them tends to be dictated less by migration and more by sea conditions: hurricane season in the Caribbean, monsoon season in the Indian Ocean. Plan around the weather, and the whales are almost always there.

Dominica — November to June

Dominica is the gold standard for sperm whale encounters. The island hosts a resident population of around 200 individuals, family pods that have been studied for decades and are well accustomed to respectful human presence. The encounters here are unlike anywhere else: females and calves logging at the surface, socialising, rubbing against each other, occasionally rolling to look at you with one enormous eye. When conditions align, you can find yourself in the water with 15 or 20 whales at once.

The regulations are strict and deliberately expensive, a pricing strategy designed to keep volumes low and operators serious. Only three swimmers at a time enter the water, always with a licensed guide. Operations pause during hurricane season, from late June to October. 


Sri Lanka, Kalpitiya — January to April

Swimming with whales in Sri Lanka is technically illegal without a government permit, and those permits are notoriously difficult to obtain. Most operators working in Sri Lanka don't have them. We do.

Our base is Kalpitiya, a quiet fishing village on the northwest coast, far from the overcrowded whale-watching scene around Mirissa in the south. The waters here are calmer, the groups smaller, and the experience closer to an expedition than a tourist activity. Sperm whales are the primary target, with consistent sightings from January through April. The same waters can also yield blue whales, fin whales, and large pods of spinner dolphins. After the whale days, a short drive takes you to Wilpattu National Park, one of Sri Lanka's oldest and least-visited reserves, with leopards, elephants, and sloth bears.


Mauritius — Year-round

Mauritius sits above one of the deepest ocean trenches in the Indian Ocean, and the sperm whales that live here are year-round residents, drawn by the same conditions that make the island's underwater topography so dramatic. The encounters happen in open water, in the blue: no reef, no visible bottom, just you and an animal the size of a bus rising slowly from below.

The island offers more than the whales: white sand beaches, hiking through waterfalls and forests, and some of the best snorkelling in the Indian Ocean. It's a destination that works on multiple levels, and the sperm whale swim sits at the centre of a trip that can be as active or as relaxed as you want.

Our Sperm Whale destinations:

Blue Whales

The Largest Animals That Ever Lived

BLue whale in Timor-Leste

The blue whale is not just the largest animal alive today, it is the largest animal to have ever existed on Earth, larger than any dinosaur. An adult can reach 30 metres in length and weigh up to 180 tonnes. Its heart is the size of a small car. Its call, one of the loudest sounds produced by any animal, can travel thousands of kilometres through the ocean.

Despite their size, blue whales are filter feeders, living almost entirely on krill. They are also largely solitary and fast-moving, which makes in-water encounters fundamentally different from those with humpbacks or sperm whales. There is no logging, no socialising, no curious calf approaching to investigate. A blue whale encounter is a flyby: you drop into the water in its path, and for a few extraordinary seconds, something the size of a passenger jet glides past you and dissolves back into the deep. It lasts moments. It stays with you forever.

Blue whales are found in all the world's oceans, migrating between cold polar feeding grounds and warmer low-latitude waters. They can be spotted from Iceland to Chile, from the Maldives to California. But the places where you can legally and responsibly get in the water with them are very few.

Timor-Leste — September to December

Every year between September and December, pygmy blue whales migrate through the Ombai-Wetar Strait off the coast of Timor-Leste on their way south toward Australia. The waters here are among the most biodiverse on the planet: a marine superhighway that also carries sperm whales, pilot whales, orcas, and large pods of dolphins through the same narrow passage.

Timor-Leste is currently one of the only places in the world where getting in the water with blue whales is permitted. The regulatory framework is still developing (the government introduced voluntary guidelines in 2020 and has been working toward formal legislation since) which means the quality of operators varies significantly. We work with a small, carefully selected local team that keeps groups to a maximum of three or four swimmers, approaches passively, and never chases. In a destination where irresponsible tourism is a genuine and growing risk, choosing the right operator matters enormously.

Beyond the whales, Timor-Leste itself is a place that rewards the effort of getting there: pristine reefs, a frontier diving scene, and a country still finding its footing as a destination, which is precisely what makes it worth visiting now.


The Azores — March to June (professionals only)

The Azores sit above some of the deepest water in the Atlantic, and blue whales pass through in spring on their northward migration, typically March to June. The encounters here are possible, but access is strictly limited to professionals: photographers and researchers operating under specific government permits. There is no recreational swimming with blue whales in the Azores. If you work in underwater photography or marine research and are looking to document blue whales in the Atlantic, the Azores is where to go. For everyone else, it belongs on the whale watching list rather than the whale swimming one.


Sri Lanka, Mirissa — a note

Mirissa, on Sri Lanka's southern coast, is one of the most famous blue whale watching destinations in the world, and the waters here do hold blue whales between December and March. We hold the permits required to operate in-water encounters in Sri Lanka, but we have chosen not to run trips in Mirissa, and we want to be transparent about why.

The whale watching industry off Mirissa has grown faster than the regulations governing it. Too many boats, too close, too often chasing animals. We have seen what unmanaged tourism does to whale behaviour, and we are not willing to add to the problem. We will revisit Mirissa when the regulatory situation improves and the animals have more protection. Until then, our Sri Lanka operations remain in Kalpitiya, where conditions are quieter and our permitted encounters are conducted with the care they deserve.

Our Blue Whale destination:

Right Whales

The Whale That Nearly Paid for Its Own Name

Southern Right Whale in South Africa

The most widely accepted explanation for how right whales got their name is also the most uncomfortable one: they were the "right" whale to hunt. Slow-moving, coastal, docile, and, crucially, they floated when killed, making them easy to tow to shore. Whalers from the Basque coast to Nantucket targeted them for centuries, harvesting their thick blubber for oil and their long baleen plates for corsets and carriage whips. By the early 20th century, populations had been reduced to the edge of extinction.

The northern species never recovered. The North Atlantic right whale numbers around 380 individuals today, one of the most endangered large animals on Earth. The southern right whale has done better, with a recovering population now estimated at over 2,000 individuals in the waters around Peninsula Valdés alone, growing at roughly 7% per year since commercial whaling ended. It is one of conservation's more encouraging stories. But it is a story that starts with near annihilation, and the name is a permanent reminder of why.

Southern right whales migrate seasonally between their cold southern feeding grounds near Antarctica and the warmer, sheltered bays of South America, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, where they breed and calve. They are slow, curious, and, particularly as calves, remarkably approachable. They have been known to swim directly toward boats and divers, rolling and turning to get a better look. It is this same docility, ironically, that almost destroyed them.

Peninsula Valdés, Patagonia — June to December

The Golfo Nuevo and Golfo San José, in the sheltered bays of Argentina's Peninsula Valdés, are the most important calving and mating grounds for southern right whales in the South Atlantic. Every year from June to December, hundreds of mothers and calves gather in the shallow, protected waters here, often so close to shore that you can watch them from the beach.

Getting in the water with them is a different matter. Argentina prohibits recreational swimming with whales entirely: the regulation exists to protect animals that are still recovering and whose very approachability makes them vulnerable to disturbance. The only exception is a single government permit, issued weekly, for a maximum of four professional photographers. One permit, four people, the whole of South America. The whales get their peace. The world gets the images.

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